Monday, September 29, 2008

four degrees south



We’ve spent the last few days on the small beach town of Mancora, Peru, four degrees south of the equator. The weather is perfect. The waves are perfect. The seafood is perfect. The company is perfect. I’d complain, but I can’t think of anything to complain about.

After a terribly sad and bewildering week of separating from Bolivia and our lives as Peace Corps Volunteers, we thought a few days of relaxation and contemplation would do us good. Boy howdy. It has. Tom and I and nine of our friends from Peace Corps Bolivia took a sixteen hour bus ride from Lima to the northern beaches of Peru, and here we’ve been for the last week, soaking, talking, swimming, taking in the sun, mulling over the past, tossing around ideas for our future, and enjoying the now. It’s just what we needed.

Bolivia, though still shaky politically (looks like we were not evacuated for naught), has calmed down a bit, and we’ll be able to go back next week to be in Oki for a few days. I wonder what it will be like. Sad, probably. Good, I hope. I can’t imagine not seeing that place again, not explaining to friends why we’ve had to go, not having coffee under our mosquito net a few last times. From there we’ll head to Buenos Aires, get our butts handed to us in this marathon, and rock out with Tom’s dad and brother Patrick who are coming down to cheer us on and play with us in Patagonia.

Life is good. This is not what we expected, but I’m grateful for the amazing year we spent in Okinawa and the new opportunities opening up to us.

Here are some pics of the last week in Mancora. Awesome place.
chilling on the beach. The place where we´re staying is right on this beach, and it´s five bucks a night. Rough life.

sea slug. Lots of good nature here. Marlise and Naya and I went swimming with two huge dolphins the other day -we were just a few feet away from them. George says he thinks they were a kind of killer whale. Oh. That´s not as good of an idea as swimming with dolphins, but they didn´t eat us, so that´s cool.

backpacking along the beach. Feels pretty good.

mototaxi that took us to the mud baths

Ryan and Tom getting thrashed. We do this for about six hours a day.


ceviche is amazing.


the hookah.

Took a day trip out to some hot springs and mud baths, which was really just a trough in the middle of a parking lot full of warm mud, which was awesome.

me


Tom and George



Ben Ranz



Emily




our good crew of eleven.

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Monday, September 22, 2008

that just happened

Woah. My last day as a Peace Corps Volunteer.

After a week in a hotel in Peru, an obscene amount of paperwork, and more tears than I've shed in all of the last five years, we are now just normal citizens. Just good old Americans on our own. Of the 113 of us evacuated, 30 have decided to transfer their service to another country. I applaud them. We considered it, but with just nine months left in our service, we were dubious we'd be able to integrate, assess our community's needs, then start and complete a project. Plus, what I really wish we could do is go back to Okinawa and continue as we'd planned. To me starting over in another country, another village would be trying to fill a hole with the wrong substance. Like your car just got a flat tire, so you pump it full of water. (would that work?)

So we and 81 others have decided to end our service and carry on. Some hope to re-enroll and start the whole thing over in a few months. That is awesome. As for Tom and I, we've got babies to make, school to complete, a house to renovate, and a good life in VA to get back to, so we plan to go back to Oki for a few weeks, then travel for a while, and probably be home for Christmas.

What a week it's been. I turned 30 somewhere in there -we had a great big toga party and laughed a lot, danced a lot, ate delicious ceviche; I got spanked 60 times and hugged many more. It felt good.

So, how strange. What now? Our Peace Corps service came to a close so abruptly. I guess we always had a hunch this could happen -the political situation has been so volatile, we've activated our Emergency Action Plan 18 times in the last year and been consolidated twice. Tom said so many times that we were about to get the boot. I'd always say no way. We'd sit in bed so many mornings, mugs in our hands, looking at the world map and talking about where in the world we could go if it ever happened. And now, whoah, we can go.

Our plan is to go back to Bolivia, try to hand off our projects to our work partners there, give away everything in our house, and give a proper goodbye to our friends. That's gonna suck. Then we'll head to Buenos Aires on the 10th of October for the marathon. This evacuation business has put a damper on our training, so it might be more of a crawl, but we'll do it as best we can. From there, down to Patagonia, and then. . . nowhere to go but up! maybe a slow trip home through south and central america.

I'm so sad that our Peace Corps Experience has come to a close -mostly sad to leave our life in Okinawa and the amazing friends we've made over the last year. But there is so much ahead, so many good opportunities. We'll keep telling our stories and sharing pictures of the fun. So stay tuned.

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

what just happened?

A few days ago we were in Okinawa, chilling with our good friend George who had just gotten a site relocation and was to be our new neighbor. We’d spent the morning playing baseball in the mango grove down the road from our house. It was going to be a good year. A very good year. I went off to a rural community in the afternoon to teach a health class to a group of women as I normally do, George and Tom stayed in Oki talking about the good times to come. A call came in on a friend’s cell phone while we were teaching our class, it was Tom, he said to come home right away. Two staff members from the Peace Corps had come to our door in their land cruiser to take us to the city. Ten minutes to pack, no time for goodbyes.

The political situation in Bolivia has become increasingly tense over the past few months. Divisions between the indigenous populations of the western half of the country and the wealthier independence seeking states in the east have existed for centuries. Racism, poverty, and inequality are rampant and divisive. With the country’s first indigenous president, Evo Morales, at the helm, the poorer and oppressed people of the west found hope and courage to stand up against the wealthier and whiter eastern half of the country. Morales, working to give more resources and opportunities to the indigenous, has met huge opposition from the eastern states, who are now demanding independence and the control of their own revenues that come from the abundant gas and oil reserves in the eastern lowlands. They do not want to share the profits of their resources with the poorer indigenous in the western half. So tension has been on the rise. Road blocks have been a constant over the last month, restricting travel and the transport of food, gas, and other goods that Bolivia depends on from neighboring countries. Food prices spiked dramatically in many areas because of the shortages, and gas, both for cooking and for driving, was unavailable in many communities across the country. People were getting angry.

The good ol USA in it’s infinite capitalistic wisdom has opposed Morales from the start and supported the wealthier eastern governors. They have gas to trade and businesses to build. Morales, a socialist, wants to nationalize many industries and create a more even playing field for all the people of Bolivia –not Bush’s kind of game. And so last week, in a gesture of ‘get your paws off my people’ Evo Morales told Phil Goldberg the US ambassador that he was no longer welcome in Bolivia and asked him to leave immediately. Hugo Chavez, president of Venezuela and ally of Morales, followed suit and sent Venezuela’s ambassador home, too. The US reacted similarly, ejecting both countries ambassadors to the US. We started to get nervous at this point. Tension between the US and Bolivia has been very high for years, USAID who gives $80 million a year to Bolivia has been asked to leave, the Peace Corps has been accused of being a spy agency sent to dethrone the president, and anti-american sentiment has been increasing steadily. With the ambassador gone, we started to get nervous.

Just in 2008 the PC volunteers in Bolivia been on six emergency action plans and consolidated twice for our safety. It makes Washington nervous and causes a lot of disruption to the work we’re doing in our sites. Always at the back of our minds was the question, ‘are we about to get kicked out of here?’

Seems so. We packed our bags quickly and got in the land cruiser to head to Santa Cruz. I waved goodbye to our neighbor and said we’d be back in a few days. Six days, five hotels, and three cities later, we are now in Lima Peru. We were first consolidated to Cochabamba with our fellow 113 volunteers. There we were separated into two groups and transported from hotel to hotel to keep our location unknown. On Sunday we got word that we were to be evacuated. The other group would leave in an hour, our group the next day. We were not to call our families or our friends in our sites –if news got out that we were leaving the country, we could be targeted and in greater danger than we already were.

Still, there was still hope that we could return in a few weeks after things calmed down in Bolivia, go back to our sites, continue our work and our lives. The next day, after lots of waiting, crying, laughing, wondering, we went to the airport and awaited the military cargo plane that was to take us to Lima, Peru. Just before we boarded our Country Director notified us that Washington had decided to end the Peace Corps Program in Bolivia. We would not be going back. More tears. Hours later (bumpy hours) we landed in Lima and joined the rest of our group. Glad to be together again, and devastated at the loss of our friends, work, homes, and the greatest job ever, we’ve been clinging to one another, helping each other through the daunting process of deciding, in a very short time, what on earth to do next.

We all have two options: apply to continue our service for one or two more years in another country, or close our service now and be on our way. Not an easy call. Over the next few days we’ll find out which countries are inviting us to join them. The alternative opens the door to . . . to . . . anything. A year. To do anything. Wow.

We’ll keep you posted on what we’re thinking and where we might be heading. For now, I am so sad not to be in Okinawa, heartbroken to leave our friends and the work we’d poured ourselves into, but grateful, so wholly grateful, for everything the last year and a half has been.

Sunday, September 7, 2008

a tisket a tasket


Use old newspapers to make a basket! I woke up the other morning thinking, as I often do, about trash. I didn’t used to think about trash so much. I just threw it out, and off it went to the landfill. But now that I’m tasked with dealing with an entire community’s trash problem, I give it a good deal of contemplation.

The women of my mom’s club are a fabulous group. They have taken the simple ideas of recycling I’ve brought and turned them into an art form. Their latest creation is tote bags made out of plastic milk and juice bags. Here milk and juice come in one liter plastic bags (no worse a waste of resources than the cardboard oj cartons or hard plastic milk cartons we have in the states I suppose), and the bags make for a fine designer material. I have yet to see a cool purse made out of one gallon milk jugs anyhow.



So the other morning, as I was thinking sweet thoughts about the new line of oki milk tote bags, I had an idea. Why not make something out of paper, too? Seeing as all trash in Oki is currently burned (paper, plastic, diapers, aerosol cans and all), reusing the trash instead of sending it to the burn pile does a favor to both the air and our lungs.

So I got to it, ripping up a stack of magazines and newspapers we have lying around, and I turned them into a bowl. Turned out quite pretty, really, so I took it to my mom’s club to see if they were as impressed as I was. And they were! So, we sat at Kati’s table, ducks and turtles at our feet, Nescafe in hand, and ripped up page after page of magazines and newspapers. Each of us set out to make our own basket of recycled paper and said we’d bring them back the next week to show and share.





Was work back home ever this fun? I love this stuff.

feet don’t fail me now!

Just a little over a month away from the marathon, and my dogs are starting to show some wear and tear. It would take a mighty good pedicure to make these things pretty again. There’s a toenail on my left foot that looks as though it might fall off sometime in the near future. Guess the poor little guy bumped into my shoe a few thousand too many times. It was hurting something mightily and turned bright red, to which Tom suggested we drill a hole through the nail to relieve the pressure. I was skeptical (and a little nauseous at the thought) so I opted for the lesser invasive treatment of watching it turn black. I just hope it grows back.



My right foot is my bigger concern –it hurts. I don’t know if it’s a tendon or a bone, but it’s not happy. I’ll get that checked out as soon as I can. In the meantime, I’ll give it some rest and splurge on a block of ice from the local ice store to pack around it. I’m feeling a little bummed about it all, hoping very much that I’ll be able to do the race on October 12th. I guess if I can’t, I’ll at least get a front row seat to cheer Tom on. But here’s to strong bones and healthy bodies; they are not to be taken for granted.

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

the great cheese adventure

Been working hard here in Oki the last few weeks and so, looking for an adventure and a brief getaway, Tom and I, along with our friends Jeremy, Marie, and Elizabeth, the three Salesian volunteers that live in Okinawa with us, decided to hitchhike our way to San Xavier, Jesuit Mission town and home of the San Xavier Cheese Factory.

It’s a six hour trip by bus from Oki to San Xavier, but we’d heard that you can cross the river on a ferry and cut the trip in half. No public transportation goes that way, but plenty of cars do, so we figured our charm and thumbs might get us there. At 7:30 on Saturday morning we met in the plaza and headed for the river in a cab, just 15 kilometers down the road from Oki.



The cab stopped where the road ends, and we trekked across a kilometer of river bed through dust a foot deep. Got to the river where there were a number of wooden boats ready to take cars and passengers across.

Once across, we were 20 k from the next paved road, but after walking just a few kilometers we waved down a car coming by and the five of us piled in. The rest of the journey, two cars and a bus later, went off without a hitch, and we were in San Xavier by 10:30. What a beautiful town. Their church, built in 1691, is the oldest of the Jesuit Mission churches in Bolivia, and it is beautiful. Breathtakingly beautiful. And OLD. Really old. Older than America.













After we oohed and ahhhed at the church, visited the host family of another peace corps volunteer (he was out of town), and grabbed a bite to eat, we headed up the hill to the cheese factory. Oh man, they brought out one of everything that they make for us –yogurt, cheese, ricotta, dulce de leche- and we pretty much bought it all.




The trip back home wasn’t quite so smooth. We did a lot of waiting around for a ride, paid twice as much as we did on the way there, and had to get some beers to keep our optimism about us, but we made it home by nine that night. Crossing the river in the dark was even cooler, as was the trek through the black, dusty river plateau back to civilization. I’ve never seen stars so bright. We were filthy and exhausted by the time we reached Oki, and to celebrate our successful journey, we went to the Japanese restaurant here in town, had some yakisoba, and went to bed.



It was a good trip, a fine adventure, and now we got a fridge full of cheese.

Pics from North Carolina to Virginia