May 30: Blue Ridge Summit, PA

1056.7 miles.

Well, that hostel on the other side of Harpers Ferry where we intended to stay a few nights back was lacking a sign, and we didn't figure out we'd passed it until we were two miles too far along. It was nearly eight at night at that point, foggy, and three steep miles to the next shelter, but we pressed on, sad and tired and ever so gross from wearing clothes that had been rained on four days straight. It was our first night hike since March when we headed up Springer Mountain, the AT's starting point in Georgia under the full moon. No full moon this time, and the fog made our headlamps useless, so we stumbled along in the dark over the rocky, muddy trail. And as it was just getting pitch black we arrived at the shelter, which was chock full, but everyone scooted together to make room for the two late comers. That's how it goes out here. We help each other out, we always greet people we pass, because a little kindness goes a long way.

We spent just two days hiking through Maryland. About forty miles of trail pass through there, and this evening we crossed into Pennsylvania, the seventh state along the trail, and the one where I was born. So far it's got lots of trees and hills and rocks and someone's firing their gun not too far from where we're sleeping. Not so different from the other side of the Mason Dixon line. 

We've done a few twenty mile days this week and we're feeling good, walking fast, sleeping hard. I love this life. So simple and rewarding. 

Two young amish girls and their grandma stopped to talk to us as we passed through a park today. They were curious about what we eat and where we sleep and how far we go everyday and what we do when it rains. We chatted for a while, and I showed them our gear and said that they should think about hiking the trail one day. The look in their eyes reminded me, as I'm reminded every day out here, of what an amazing time in our lives this is. 

May 28: Blackburn AT Center, WV

1001.0 miles!

One thousand miles. Whoa. Did I ever think I'd walk a thousand miles? And here we are, made it to West Virginia, and almost at the AT's half-way point. Yesterday we hiked the infamous roller coaster -13.5 miles of straight ups and downs (picture a heart beat monitor, that's what the profile of the trail looks like). If we'd hiked it a few months ago I would've been begging for mercy, but being in the shape we're in by now it was downright enjoyable. 

We passed by Bear's Den Hostel midway, ate a pint of Ben and Jerry's, then pushed on to get to the Blackburn center, a PATC managed cabin where hikers can stay for free. Helen, awesome friend from Bolivia, was waiting to meet us when we arrived, and as we walked in the door the guy who runs the cabin handed us a beer and invited us to sit down for a homemade supper. Too cool!

It was great to catch up with Helen, reminisce about Bolivia and talk about what we're up to now. She's going back to Bolivia to lead summer trips for a group of students -put some ideas in my head....

Today we'll head to Harpers Ferry, WV and stay in a hostel so we can shower and wash our clothes. It's been raining for four straight days and my smartwools have a serious case of the funk. 

We were hoping to meet mom in Harpers Ferry, but the timing didn't work out. She sent a package in her stead, but I wish we could hang out tonight. 

We've been seriously blessed with visits from friends along the way. Last weekend Graeme and Nicole came up Skyline to meet us in Shenandoah National Park. It was a gorgeous weekend, perfect weather, and the four of us hiked up to Mary's Rocks, pitched our tents, and watched the sunset unfold. Which was made all the more spectacular by the BOX of wine they lugged up the mountain with them. The next day we hiked a good stretch to the north end of the park and stayed at a great little hostel (some guy's basement in a residential neighborhood) near front Royal, where we had all the fun to be had in a small town -beers and dinner at the tavern, a gripping round of trivial pursuit with Mike, the hostel owner, coffee and breakfast at a cafe on main street, and milkshakes before we got back on the trail. 

Graeme and Nicole hiked in a few miles with us on Monday morning, then headed back home. They're hoping to come join us for the final stretch in Maine, too, which would rock. But for now, real world calls. And man does it make me ever grateful that we have this time, this fantastic opportunity to be out here. 

Well, a call to all friends and loved ones: it's a darn good time on the Appalachian Trail! Come out and join us for a few days. You'll leave sore and dirty and not regretting it one little bit. 

May 21: South River, Shenandoah National Park

900.8 miles


Back at it and lovin life.

On Tuesday afternoon we hiked up to the AT from Sugar Hollow with Leah, then said goodbye to my awesome sister a little sad to leave home, but excited to continue our journey north. It's a different feeling to be walking away from home rather than towards it, as we did for the first two months of the trail.

Yesterday we stood on top of Loft Mountain and caught our last glimpse of home. We could see Charlottesville below, the university and monticello in the distance, and Fox Mountain, where we'd spent two great weeks with Leah and Joe in their new beautiful home, just below us. Now the distance between us and home has grown, and Albemarle county is out of sight.

Do I detect a twinge of homesickness? Maybe so, it's a place to be missed, no doubt about that. But I'm happy to be back out here, getting my butt kicked by these hills, feeling the thrill of a free day, taking in the air the trees the birds the flowers the wide open sky. What beautiful country we live in.

We timed where we'd pick up the trail just right. When we got to Black Rock hut the first night there were a pile of familiar faces -and some new ones, too. The trail felt downright crowded today. We were in a pack of eight or ten other thru-hikers, which felt bizarre since we'll sometimes go a whole day without seeing anyone else. Those two weeks off took their toll on us, and we stopped to camp after a fifteen mile day while everyone else pressed on to the next shelter, another five miles up the trail.

We'll get our legs back in another couple days I bet. For now, feeling good enough, happy to be where I am, and can't get over the good fortune I have to be in the midst of such a fine adventure next to such a fine adventuresome man.

what everyone really wants

I could ramble on all day about the beauty of the trees and the flowers and the freedom of life on the trail, but I know that everyone just really wants to look at some pictures. So here you go (in no particular order, actually in rather reverse chronological order, and without captions, because that would take forever, and I'm due to be back in the woods in an hour):

two week vacation from our vacation

Right on Schedule, we rolled into Charlottesville first week of May (with a little help from our friends, one of which was a car), and we've been here for two weeks, loving life, playing with friends, resting our legs, and enjoying home. Jeremy, our good bud and fellow volunteer from Okinawa Bolivia, came and hiked with us for a few days, and then we all headed into c'ville together to play a while.

Here we are with our friend Scott and his baby goats, Marie and Elizabeth. There's maybe nothing more fulfilling than holding a baby goat. For days after this I kept thinking, man, I just want to pick up a baby goat.

Then we went to Monticello to check out mister Jefferson's place.

And the farmers' market downtown,

where there was a woman from Bolivia making empanadas! Too cool.

Then Patrick and Hanna came from Omaha to visit us for a few days, and we hung out at the cabin, did some serious fishing (serious meaning even I caught something, which never happens), and we all went to see the Boss in action. that's right, Bruce Springsteen in our little ol hometown. How great is this life!

Then, cause we hadn't had enough fun yet, our friend Meg came into town for the weekend, and stayed at Leah and Joe's with us. Leah and Joe's new place is fabulous, perfect for them, and it was so great to spend so much time with those two. While Meg was there we made a few pitures of strawberry margaritas and made a day of it. Love that woman!

Inbetween playing with friends, we spent a lot of time playing with friends. The fun is on full-time when you come to your hometown for vacation. Everyone's game for playing. i love it. Here's Tom and Jed hanging out by the river at Jed's b-day bash.

On Thursday we headed down to the Tye River with Talley to deliver some trail magic to fellow hikers. We didn't know who we'd run into, and for a while there it looked like maybe no one would come through, but by the end of the day we'd made a feast for more than a half dozen hikers. It was fun to be on the giving end of magic, knowing how much it means to come upon an unexpected delicious meal. We fixed up burgers and dogs, chips and salsa and guac, fruit and salad, cokes and beers, cinnamon rolls and scones, juice, coffee, and rootbeer floats.

Some of the hikers who hung out for a few hours and ate up everything we put down.

And finally, just to squeeze in a little more fun, I headed down to South Carolina to hang out with my awesome women friends from college. It was a fantastic weekend and felt to good to be around such hilarious, wise women.

Susie and Steph singing the Wood Song -a funkhouse fave. Brought a tear to my eye.

And now, exhausted from all that fun and feeling fulfilled from the good time spent with our fam and friends, it's back to the trail for us.

This afternoon we're heading out from Sugar Hollow into Shenandoah National Park. I love that the AT goes right through our back yard. What a beautiful place we live in. We'll be back in three months, ready to hunker down, move back into our place, and start life anew. Jobs, school, house, whoa. I think I'll need these three months just to get used to the idea. And for now, that's exactly where I want to be.