1915.5 miles.
Well, the first 20 miles of Maine have proven to be just as torturous, maybe even harder than the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Talking to mom the other day I mentioned how much more difficult the trail is up here -really nothing like the rest of the AT. She asked what I meant -how is it hard?
Until we got to this part I couldn't envision why it would be so tough either. Today I thought of a way to visualize it -even better actually, a way to let our friends experience the trail for themselves. So, here it is: a re-creation of the AT in southern Maine during the wettest summer on record. You'll need a staircase, but most of you can do this at home.
First, fill a wheelbarrow with dirt. Get out the garden hose and make that dirt into mud. Pour the mud down the stair case, and fill up a few tubs with mud, too. Place those on the stairs in such a way that you couldn't possibly avoid stepping in them. Next, find some big, cumbersome objects -a dish washer or a copy machine maybe- and place those on the stairs (they may tip over, that's fine). Then grab some canned goods, broom handles, rolling pins, cookie sheets, whatever is on hand in the kitchen. Toss those down the steps. Now bring the hose inside, lay the nozzle at the top of the stairs, and turn it on.
Okay, you've got your own personal Appalachian Trail, and you're ready for hiking. Starting at the bottom, go up the stairs, up and over the cumbersome things, through the mud and running water, around the obstacles. Mind you don't slip or catch your foot on something. When you reach the top, turn around and go back down. Repeat for ten hours.
That's pretty much what we did today.
Saturday, July 25, 2009
Friday, July 24, 2009
July 24: Cascade Mtn., NH
1887.3 miles.
Took a serious writing haitus there -almost made it through New Hampshire without stopping to reflect. Due in part to losing our book a week ago (got it back yesterday through a small series of miracles and kind people), but mostly it was those big and bad White Mountains that had us spellbound and -day after day- plain freakin exhausted.
What a phenomenal place the Whites are. We dropped our pace to 15 or 10 or sometimes 8 miles a day so we could take it all in, take the side trails to the lonely summits, take our time ascending and descending the long, sheer slabs of stone that stood between us and a reasonably secure place to stop and catch our breath. Everyone said this place would be a hard hike -I had no idea they were serious, that "hard hike" would apply to us, too. We've crossed hundreds of mountains, walked over 1800 miles, and are in the best shape of our lives. I thought, "how hard could it be?"
Hard. Awesomely, agonizingly, beautifully, hard.
And now, the Whites behind us, we'll walk into Maine today. For months people we encountered along the trail and in towns have asked us where we're headed. "Maine," we've always replied -confidence growing in that response with every state line we crossed. I guess we'll have to be a little more specific from here on out.
Took a serious writing haitus there -almost made it through New Hampshire without stopping to reflect. Due in part to losing our book a week ago (got it back yesterday through a small series of miracles and kind people), but mostly it was those big and bad White Mountains that had us spellbound and -day after day- plain freakin exhausted.
What a phenomenal place the Whites are. We dropped our pace to 15 or 10 or sometimes 8 miles a day so we could take it all in, take the side trails to the lonely summits, take our time ascending and descending the long, sheer slabs of stone that stood between us and a reasonably secure place to stop and catch our breath. Everyone said this place would be a hard hike -I had no idea they were serious, that "hard hike" would apply to us, too. We've crossed hundreds of mountains, walked over 1800 miles, and are in the best shape of our lives. I thought, "how hard could it be?"
Hard. Awesomely, agonizingly, beautifully, hard.
And now, the Whites behind us, we'll walk into Maine today. For months people we encountered along the trail and in towns have asked us where we're headed. "Maine," we've always replied -confidence growing in that response with every state line we crossed. I guess we'll have to be a little more specific from here on out.
Monday, July 20, 2009
July 20: Gorham, NH
1859.0 miles
Whoa.
These mountains are HUGE.
We've heard about the White Mountains of New Hampshire since we began this trek. People on the trail talk about them like some mythical beast that's gonna eat you. You hear things along the way like, "oh man, this is the steepest climb on the trail -except for the Whites of course." Or, "dude, the rocks in Pennsylvania are the worst! Except for the rocks in the Whites. Those are actually the worst." Or, "you think this is tough, wait until you get to the Whites."
It's no joke. These hills are bigger than life. And we are right in the middle of them.
Yesterday we summitted Mt. Washington, the second highest peak on the trail, and the location of -as the sign at the base of the mountains puts it- the worst weather in America. Sure enough. It was crazy up there. The peaks here are well above tree line, and there was no refuge from the 80 to 100 mile an hour winds whipping us sideways. One wrong step and you could easily break an ankle, so at times I scrambled across the jagged boulders on all fours. The clouds were so thick we could barely see 20 feet. And that was a nice day up there we hear.
Coming down Washington, we followed the rocky ridge of the Presidential peaks for 15 miles or so, said hello to Mr. Adams, TJ, and James Madison, then ducked back down into the trees, sad to lose the spectacular 360 views, but a little glad to be back on the familiar trails of mud and roots and rocks. That was some tough walking up there.
People ask us all the time what our favorite part of the trail has been. This is it. Right here. Rugged, agonizing on the knees, and hard to breathe, you'd have to be crazy to drag yourself up these hills. But I love every beautiful bit of it.
Whoa.
These mountains are HUGE.
We've heard about the White Mountains of New Hampshire since we began this trek. People on the trail talk about them like some mythical beast that's gonna eat you. You hear things along the way like, "oh man, this is the steepest climb on the trail -except for the Whites of course." Or, "dude, the rocks in Pennsylvania are the worst! Except for the rocks in the Whites. Those are actually the worst." Or, "you think this is tough, wait until you get to the Whites."
It's no joke. These hills are bigger than life. And we are right in the middle of them.
Yesterday we summitted Mt. Washington, the second highest peak on the trail, and the location of -as the sign at the base of the mountains puts it- the worst weather in America. Sure enough. It was crazy up there. The peaks here are well above tree line, and there was no refuge from the 80 to 100 mile an hour winds whipping us sideways. One wrong step and you could easily break an ankle, so at times I scrambled across the jagged boulders on all fours. The clouds were so thick we could barely see 20 feet. And that was a nice day up there we hear.
Coming down Washington, we followed the rocky ridge of the Presidential peaks for 15 miles or so, said hello to Mr. Adams, TJ, and James Madison, then ducked back down into the trees, sad to lose the spectacular 360 views, but a little glad to be back on the familiar trails of mud and roots and rocks. That was some tough walking up there.
People ask us all the time what our favorite part of the trail has been. This is it. Right here. Rugged, agonizing on the knees, and hard to breathe, you'd have to be crazy to drag yourself up these hills. But I love every beautiful bit of it.
Sunday, July 5, 2009
500 miles to go!!
With five hundred miles to go it finally feels as if we are approaching an end to this journey. We are now in Vermont only two states left after this one, New Hampshire and Maine, and then back to...more work, play, family and food that is already hydrated. Just a few pictures to document our journey.
Yes! Bears! in a zoo on the AT at Bear Mountain in NY.
Our first swim in a long time.
Boy did it feel good. This was at Upper Goose pond in Massachusetts.
Anna on Upper Goose pond.
Sunfish pond in New Jersey.
Always a helpful sign on the AT.
Always Hungry!
Yes! Bears! in a zoo on the AT at Bear Mountain in NY.
This was on Mombash Mountain in NY, if you look really hard you'll see the NYC skyline. We went to NYC for two days and hung out with our PC Bolivia friends Kates, Evan and Anna O.
Anna O., Anna B and Kates in Brooklyn.
Our first swim in a long time.Boy did it feel good. This was at Upper Goose pond in Massachusetts.Anna on Upper Goose pond.Snack time, PB and whatever it'll go on.
Into Vermont!
Haven't spotted one yet but here's a moose track.
Sometimes we fall down.
Hiking buddy
Another hiking buddy.
Saturday, July 4, 2009
July 4: Story Spring Shelter, VT
1619.5 miles.
Happy Birthday America!
Another messy, muddy, rainy day to celebrate our life of independence.
Sick of the rain and pretty exhausted from hiking 20 some miles a day for over a month, we pinned our hopes on Vermont and the beautiful Green Mountains to cheer us up.
Well, apparently it rains in Vermont, too.
No matter, we're excited to be here, just two more states and 550 miles from our destination. These mountains are beautiful -full of fir trees and lakes, bear and moose tracks everywhere. Sure it's rained 8 inches in the last three days, the trail is a sloppy mud pit, and our tent is growing a few varieties of mold, but Leah is coming up to meet us tomorrow to hike with us for a week, and the radio says there's a chance of sunshine this afternoon!
Rain or shine, onward we march in our pursuit of happiness.
Happy Birthday America!
Another messy, muddy, rainy day to celebrate our life of independence.
Sick of the rain and pretty exhausted from hiking 20 some miles a day for over a month, we pinned our hopes on Vermont and the beautiful Green Mountains to cheer us up.
Well, apparently it rains in Vermont, too.
No matter, we're excited to be here, just two more states and 550 miles from our destination. These mountains are beautiful -full of fir trees and lakes, bear and moose tracks everywhere. Sure it's rained 8 inches in the last three days, the trail is a sloppy mud pit, and our tent is growing a few varieties of mold, but Leah is coming up to meet us tomorrow to hike with us for a week, and the radio says there's a chance of sunshine this afternoon!
Rain or shine, onward we march in our pursuit of happiness.
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