Monday, March 30, 2009

March 30: Max Patch Bald, NC

252.o miles.

Wow, what a soft bed and a little sunshine will do for the soul. We spent last night at Standing Bear Farm just outside of Great Smoky Mountain National Park. After five days of cold rain we were so excited for a hot shower, some dry clothes, and a warm place to sleep. We shared a cabin, which was complete with a fireplace and flannel sheets, with Ducky, whom we've been traveling with for a few days, and Tagless and Tagalong, a wonderful couple we met there. I took my normal thirty minute once a week shower -loved every minute of it- and we went for a beer run, got some bbq and frozen pizzas and made a fine night of it. Amazing how much you enjoy those things when you've been away from it all. The bed and the cozy cabin and the good company were so nice. The shower was just downright necessary.

This morning we headed back up the mountain for a steady fourteen mile climb to Max Patch Summit, a huge bald at 4,600 feet with a phenomenal 360 degree view. We pitched our tent and watched the sunset go from pretty to holy crap that is gorgeous, to clear sky darkness.

We're hoping for no rain for a few days -been on the trail about 19 days, 9 of which it's rained. Life's just so much kinder when your feet and your cookies are dry. Tomorrow, if we can crank out 20 miles, we'll make it to Hot Springs. Can't wait!

Saturday, March 28, 2009

March 28: Icewater Spring Shelter, GSMNP

207.7 miles.

We've been on the trail 18 days, and this is the 8th day we've woken up to rain. Cold, hard rain. So it goes in the spring time I suppose. Yesterday we summited Clingman's Dome, the highest point on the AT at 6,643 feet, in the midst of a thrashing storm. We hear the views from up here in the Smokies are splendid, but it's been pure rain and wind for days, and we haven't seen much but the muddy, slippery trail under our feet. We'll have to come back another time to see all there is to see.

Yesterday and today the trail has been a flowing creek, ankle deep sometimes. No one's feet are dry. No one's anything is dry.

And yet we're all still laughin and sharing stories and communing in the fulness of a great adventure.

In the Smokies you're not permitted to camp, everyone must stay in the Shelters, which are old three walled, metal roofed stone buildings. They're simple but beautiful dirt floored structures with an upper and a lower wooden platform for sleeping. About twelve to sixteen could sleep inside comfortably, but in the rain there's always room for one or two more. Inside there's you find an assortment of AT thru-hikers of all ages, a couple locals out for a night or two, maybe some kids on spring break. We'd heard that the AT is a social trail, and it couldn't be truer. So many interesting characters to meet and get to know out here.

Thursday, March 26, 2009

March 26: Silers Bald Shelter, GSMNP

192.2 miles.

The cool thing about the trail also being a flowing creek is that when you're thirsty, you can just bend down and suck on your socks.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

March 25: Spence Field Shelter, GSMNP

180.4 miles.

Just did ten miles today because some kind of freezing hurricane blew in during the night. Now cozied up in our sleeping bags on the top bunk of a shelter listening to the wind and the rain. This is one of the first chances we've had to sit and reflect and relax during the day. We normally hike until it's just about to get dark, then find a good place to camp, but cuddling up is a way better option on such a nasty day. All this time to sit and think, I naturally turn to the existential questions. I asked Tom what he likes about this AT experience, and he said the following: getting in shape, spending time with his lovely wife (what a nice guy, eh), seeing so many beautiful things, feeling relaxed. I said letting my mind wander wherever it wants to, feeling my body get strong, being surrounded by nature and noticing patterns in the way the birds move and sing, where certain plants grow, watching the flowers begin to bloom.

Then I thought about what I miss being out here on the trail. Sometimes a big comfy bed, being around the people we know and love, intellectual and artisitic things -NPR, music, conversations. Tom misses bed and coffee, cooking, friends and dinners.

Then I asked what's the point of this slow, long journey. What are we out here for? To relax, to endure, to accomplish a goal, to see our country, to be in the wilderness, to grow, to know each other better, to learn more about myself, to feel at peace, to appreciate what we have -health, nourishment, shelter, and then all the other stuff we don't need but sure is nice to have -the comforts we miss but have learned we can do without.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

March 24: Birch Spring Gap, Great Smoky Mountain National Park, NC

169.6 miles.

We've made it to Great Smoky Mountain National Park (GSMNP)! Had a nice stop at Fontana Dam this morning. Filled my pack with junkfood I'd never have eaten back home (donuts, poptarts, candy bars, pretzels). Then ate lots of it on the 3,000 foot climb out and felt like barfing. Good to know.

We saw our first wildflowers yesterday -spring is on her way! The weather's been perfect -sunny and in the 60's, but they say rain's on the way. I just hope we can see the gerat Smokies along the way. The views are said to be spectacular. We climbed a fire tower up on a high hill this afternoon for a glimpse of the waves of mountains ahead of us. What an amazing place.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

March 22: Nantahala Outdoor Center, NC

135.0 miles.

Ahh, just polished off a one pund breakfast burrito, stack of pancakes, bacon, and five cups of coffee. Soooo happy. Spent last night at Rufus Morgan shelter with Toad, Chipmunk, and Almond Joy after an absolutely brutal 7 mile downhill stretch from Wesser Bald. Now, our bellies full, it's eight miles straight up the other side, up from 1700 to 5000 feet.

It seems Tom and I are the only ones who've made it this far without being pegged with trail names. We'd better start doing outlandish and notable things to earn us some good ones. So far, everyone just calls us T&A. Guess that'll do.

Have I mentioned that I love this? Not just the occassional huge breakfasts, though they do rock my world. I mean the life in the woods. What a way to spend your days: wake up slowly, have some tea and breakfast, pack up our house and start walking. Go up a mountain, sweat, breathe, focus on the trail, feel your legs push and stride, stretching out in front of you over and over like a tireless machine. Reach the top, take a deep breath. Go down a mountain, thoughts meander, legs relax, body cools, reach the gap, do it all over again. Take a rest, eat a feast, set out again. Find a beautiful spot, set up home, feast again, sit and talk, stretch, swap backrubs, get in our bags, chat until we fall asleep. Sleep. A perfect day. No stress, no worries, just lots of good exercise, clean air, hard work, beautiful views, and free thinking.

Friday, March 20, 2009

March 20: Licklog Gap, NC

120.0 miles.

Happy first day of spring! My pen is frozen, and the ink doesn't want to come out too well, but it was a sunny, pretty day, and we got back on the trail around noon after a supremely fantastic stop in Franklin, NC. We went out with a crew of hikers for breakfast this morning and got our fill of eggs and biscuits and gravy and coffee and oj and bacon and hashbrowns (all for about $5) -it was everything I dreamed it would be.

Tom and I spent lots of time with Thinmint and Ziggy (Hope and Michael) over the last few days. Really cool couple, also from VA. They stayed another night in Franklin to give their feet a break, but I hope we catch back up with them soon.

Fingers frozen now, too. Time for sleep.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

we're doing it!

Hey everyone! We've been on the trail nine days, walked over a hundred miles now, and made it up to North Carolina in high spirits. We're doing fabulous and loving this life. We've been keeping journals on the trail, but we don't get to emails, or towns for that matter, too often, but we'll record our journal entries here when we can.

Life on the trail is truly wonderful. We're hiking about twelve to fifteen miles a day, our legs are turning rock solid, every meal is a pure, ravenous joy, and the days are long and meandering. I love it out here.

We're in Franklin, North Carolina right now -splendid town, full of wonderful, generous people. Multiple cars have pulled over to offer us a ride in town, and a really nice couple set up a tent by the trail to offer drinks and snacks and chairs for hikers as they pass by. Tomorrow we'll go back to the hiking life, but for today we've got a hot shower, clean clothes, bbq ribs, and a soft bed in store. This is the good life.

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

March 17: Standing Indian Mountain, NC

85.7 miles

Happy St. Patty's Day! (wish I had a guinness to celebrate)

I love North Carolina! The sun came out this morning, and it was a gorgeous day in the mountains. We're up at 5,500 feet sleeping at the summit of Standing Indian Mountain. We didn't intend to stay, since it's only nine miles from where we were last night, but it's just too pretty to leave.

We had a long lunch break at a beautiful creek this afternoon where we washed our clothes and dried out all our sopping gear -even got a much needed bath in the creek. It was a great day -amazing what a little sunshine will do for you. We're happy as clams, and I'm loving this trail life. I can't wait to watch the sun set over the waves of blue mountains before us.

Yesterday in the rain (the fourth day of it) we came up with a reward system to try and make up for the blow to morale that each slip and slide on the trail can be. Goes like this:

Frequent Faller Rewards
Slip or trip (a good one that throws you off balance and makes your heart pound): one donut.
Spill (going down on your butt, knees, pack, or face): any meal you want from any restaurant along the way.
Ankel turner: a Guinness
Knee slope (a long, steep descent that makes your knee -or hips, or ankles, or toes- beg for mercy): a stop at Starbucks -or more likely a gas station coffee

Just coming down Powell Mountain yesterday I earned a donut, a cup of coffee, and a meal. All in all, I've got seven donuts, three cups of coffee, and an all you can eat breakfast buffet at Shoneys. Can't wait!

We'll stop in Franklin in a few days -our first time off the trail- where we'll get a shower and our fill of good eatin. Yippeee!

Monday, March 16, 2009

March 16: Bly Gap, NC

76.5 miles.

We made it to North Carolina! Four straight days and nights of rain -we're cold and pretty much everything on and around us is wet. Sun's supposed to come out tomorrow -hope she does.

Today was our first fifteen mile day, felt pretty good. Legs are tired, but not really more than they have been at the end of the other days. Georgia was pretty -we missed most of the views on account of being in the middle of a cloud for most of it, but the forest is beautiful -lots of mountain laurel, tall oaks and poplars, and rolling mountains. Birds started singing a few times, too, when the rain let up a bit. We saw junkos, woodpeckers, chickadees, titmouse, and rufus sided tohees. Heard woodcocks, and thrush, and a number of grouse, too.

I love it out here in the woods.

Got to call home from a mountain top under my umbrella today to wish dad a happy birthday. Great to catch up with him and ma. Also talked to Ryan who said that Sven broke down on him forty minutes after he dropped us off at Neel's Gap. Sorry about that, Ryan!

To pop, I wish you the peace of the forest, the steadfastness of the trees, the gentleness of rain, and the happiness of being surrounded by it all. Happy birthday.

four days of Georgia rain

Saturday, March 14, 2009

March 14: Blue Mountain, GA

48.7 miles. Thirty-five degrees and raining, raining, raining.

It was a sloppy, cold day. No way to keep warm but to walk. And walk. brrrr.

Friday, March 13, 2009

March 13: Whitley Gap, GA

36.9 miles. Looks good, runs good.

This is going awesome so far. We met back up with Ryan yesterday midday and he hiked north with us to Neel's Gap. We camped up on a ridge, made a great fire, and had fun hanging out last night. This morning we made it to Neel's Gap by 10 or so, which is the best gear shop I've ever been in and has an amazing staff. Tom and I took a shower, which was pure heaven. Ryan and Sven headed back to VA (he hated leaving us -I know he wishes he were doing this hike, too), and Tom and I headed out again. A lot of people stayed at the hostel, but we were feeling good and ready to keep moving. Too early for hotels!

We were hoping we'd make it to Maine without getting rained on, but no such luck. It's raining steady and pretty cold out -forty maybe. This is our first night in a shelter, and I really like it. It's not even dark yet, and everyone is hunkered down in their bags for the night since it's so wet and cold out. But it was fun to chat with people and feel the sense of joy of what we're all doing as we made our separate dinners.

Now time to give tom a back rub before he falls asleep.

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

March 11: Justus Creek, GA

Mile 13.8. Great first day. Georgia is beautiful! Pack feels great, legs feel good, gear all seems to be working great. Today we tried our plan to stop midday, cook our big meal, take a nap, then hike some more. We both loved it -felt refreshed in the afternoon and liked not having to cook after setting up camp -just ate leftovers and snacks. Did backrubs, too, which I loved. Hope we keep that tradition up.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

March 10: Springer Mountain, GA

Mile 0. Left Charlottesville this morning, got to Springer Mt, GA just as the sun set and the full moon rose. Ryan, Tom and I set out to the summit of Springer hiking by the light of the moon (only a mile and a bit). Got to the top, took lots of pictures with the plaque marking the start of the AT and are sleeping up top.

Here we go, here we go!

Sunday, March 8, 2009

geared up

Well folks, it looks like we're finally ready.

After months of research, reading, talking to friends, many trips to the outdoor store, hours at the sewing machine, and a few days in the woods, it looks like we've got the gear and are ready to begin this adventure.

Preparing to leave home for six months takes a lot of planning. There are bills and renters and cars and insurance that still need tending to while we're gone, so that requires a lot of prep work up front. And on top of thinking of what we'll be leaving behind, we've put a lot of thought into where we're heading and what we'll take with us. The bulk of the hours I've spent getting ready for the AT have centered around what is going into my backpack. Makes sense as my pack will serve as my kitchen, my bedroom, my shelter, my lunchbox, and my car. The goal is to stuff everything I will need to live well for six months into a comfortable, accessible, and very lightweight bag, and leave out anything I can do without. Which, apparently, is a lot.

Hikers love talking about gear, and, for many long distance hikers, the main goal of fine tuning their gear is to get the backpack as light as humanly possible. Some people cut the tags out of their shirts and drill holes in their toothbrushes to shave off puny amounts of weight; I haven't gotten quite that obsessive, but I have weeded out everything I think I can sanely go without and have gotten my pack down to less than 20 pounds (that's without food and water in it).

Another goal in preparing for the trip has been to keep our costs down and use what we have instead of buying new gear. We were able to use a lot of the clothes we already have, and we got some hand-me-downs from friends and siblings that have helped out, too. Some items we clearly needed to invest in, and for those we looked for sales and asked a few stores to support us in our fund raising hike. Overall we saved 30% on the purchases we made.

I did a cost analysis of the trip, curious of how expensive life in the woods will be. Turns out with food, clothing, all the gear plus anticipated replacements, insurance and other unavoidable evils, the five month trip for the two of us will cost around $5,500. Put another way, that is an annual cost of living of roughly $6,000 for one person. That's cheap. Somehow we survived on half that amount in Bolivia, but for American standards, I think walking through the woods must be one of the least expensive ways to get by. Sitting in the woods perhaps would be even cheaper, but not as fun.

For anyone curious about those 20 pounds coming with me, here's a breakdown of the gear, what each thing weighs (for the ones I can remember) and what it cost:

The *starred* items Tom and I will share, so that helps keep our weight down (mine, in particular, since he's manly and will probably carry most of them). The un-starred things are what I've got in my pack. Tom's pretty much got the same stuff in his, but somehow he spent a lot less than I did.

Pack: Gregory Jade 50. 3 lbs. $179 at 10% off
Pack cover: plastic bag. 4. oz. Pretty much free.
Sleeping bag: Western Mountaineering 10 degree down bag. 2 lbs. $400 at 10% off (this was hands down the most expensive item on our list, but a girl's gotta get her beauty rest.) Tom is using a sleeping bag he already had.
Sleeping pad: Thermarest Z-lite. 14 oz. Christmas present.
*Tent: Golite Hut Two. 2lbs. $156 (this is a tarp tent -it has no floor and no poles to hold it up; you hang it between two trees or use a trekking pole to put it up. The tent we already had weighs 8 lbs, so this was a good thing to spend on)
Ground cloth: plastic bag. 4 oz. More or less free.
*Stove: Primus pocket rocket. 8 oz. Already had it.
*Pots: MSR duralite 1.5 L and 2 L. $20 at 40% off
Trekking poles: Leki Youth adventurer. $25 at 50% off (they're kid poles, a benefit of being 5'2")
Water storage: camelbak I already had, plus 2 new nalgenes without the toxins. $10
*Water treatment: MSR ultralite pump. 8 oz. $89
Umbrella: Birdipal ultralite trekker. 8 oz. $24
Stuff sacks: homemade. $10 of materials.
Hiking shoes: Solomon gortex trail runners: $45 at 50% off.
Camp shoes: Crocs. 7 oz. Already had them.
Socks: two pairs of Smartwool hikers. $30 at %20 off.
Gators: Garmont gators. Already had them.
Lightweight long underwear top and bottom: silk underwear. Already had em.
Midweight long underwear top and bottom: fleece pants I already had and a patagonia wool 4 top $75 at 50% off.
Warm top: Down vest. 8 oz. Bought it for $3 in Bolivia on the one day it was cold in our site. Also doubles as a pillow.
Raincoat: Marmot precip. $50 at 50% off.
Rain pants: homemade. $10 for materials
Underwear: one, maybe two pairs (still contemplating this one). Already had em.
Sport bra: Champion synthetic. $14
T shirt: Icebreaker wool. $20 at 60% off
Shorts: Old Navy running shorts. Already had them (and they ran a marathon with me, so I figured they'd like this trip, too)
Hat: one of Ryan's fleece warm ones. Christmas present. And an OR rain hat. $28 at %20 off.
Bandanna: already had one.
*Medicine cabinet: toothbrush and paste, floss, nail clippers, sun block, daily vitamins, ibuprofen, band aids, tweezers, needle and thread, diva cup, and 4 oz. of dr. bronner's soap. I think we're gonna look and smell weird. For $20 and a life of freedom, can't complain.
*Cell phone and charger: 6 oz. Already had them
*Camera: Canon SD1000 plus charger and USB cord. Already had them.
Journal, one pen, one pencil.
Maybe a book -can't decide if I like reading or not yet. No, I think I'll skip it for now.

And that's it! That, plus food and water is all I will have with me. All said and done, Tom and I have spent about $1,200 on gear for the trail. His pack is under 20 pounds as well, and we imagine that at their fullest (the days we go to towns to buy food), we will be carrying around 30 to 35 pounds -a manageable amount for both of us. We'll cross roads frequently and head into nearby towns every three to five days to buy supplies and pick up packages that my mama sends. That way we won't have to carry ten days worth of food or hunt squirrels to stay alive.

We get a lot of questions about the hike, but mostly people want to know if we're glad we're about to hike the AT, if we really want to do this and are excited. There's often a slow shaking of the head and a look that says, "I can't believe you're going to do this," which might translate to, "why in god's name would you do this?" or perhaps, "thank god you're doing this and not me."

I guess a five month hike isn't for everyone, but I for one am downright stoked. I can't wait to be out in the forest, surrounded by trees and birds and beautiful views, my lungs full of fresh air, my legs working hard, my mind wandering. I don't really know what it will be like. I'm certain it will be miserable some days when we're soaked and cold and our socks are dirty and the stove won't light, but I'm equally sure that I will feel alive and purposeful and lucky to be where I am most days. I'll try to keep a pulse on that and keep you all posted.

So, friends, it's time to begin. Wish us well!

Pics from North Carolina to Virginia